Hey Bobsten,
Not sure you have your tank setup correctly for a Flinders Ranges Scorpion (Urodacus elongatus).
I have read many websites on how to best setup a environment.
I tried to post a link to a website but it appears I am unable to do that, so will post the info from the website.
Housing & Substrate: These scorpions are best kept individually; you run a high risk of cannibalism if kept together. Home can be anything from a takeaway food container to a large glass terrarium.
Small containers for housing: These are useful if you keep a lot of scorpions. They should have some holes for ventilation. Coco-fibre/soil mix is a good substrate as the coco-fibre component holds water and is slightly acidic which helps to minimize fungal problems. As already noted a humidity of around 60-70% is good, so ventilation and moisture levels in the soil should reflect that. Make up the fibre/soil mix so it feels cool and light, this will mean only adding a small amount of water and mixing it in well. Pack it down well into the container. Add something for the scorpion to hide inside or under. A piece of hollow log is good or nicely curved bark. No need for water dishes etc with this species, although it does like to drink, so a light spray once in a while at one end only is a good idea. DO NOT allow the substrate to dry out completely as your atmosphere will lose its humidity, effectively drying the scorpion out and ultimately causing it’s demise. You also do not want the scorpion to be in constant contact with damp soil or it will develop mycosis (fungal infections).Only ever spray very fine water at one end of the housing.
Large housing: I’m not keen on large housing for scorpions as it is not a good idea to keep more than one in any given housing and hence it becomes a waste of space. However if you wish to set a terrarium up it is a good idea to establish a false bottom in the tank where a layer of rock is covered in a depth of fibre/soil mix. A tube is set in place to add water to the rock layer from above the ground level. This way water makes its way upwards via natural diffusion and evaporates off in a similar fashion to that in the wild situation. The advantage to this system is that the scorpion can burrow down to find the humidity that best suits it. Good ventilation via a screen lid will keep fresh air moving to minimise the chances of mycoses affecting the scorpion. When adding the soil mix it up slightly damp and pack the soil in tight. Add objects for the scorpion to burrow under and even start a slight access hole to encourage the scorpion to excavate. This species will be very successful in this situation. Be sure not to add too much water, the top soil should always have 20mm or so of virtually dry looking soil with slightly increasing moisture at greater depth. I would suggest at least 150mm of soil on top of a 20mm rock layer. If you wish to breed in this tank you will need a large rock for placement of the spermatophore.
Note: It is recommended to bake any sand that will be added to kill fungal spores that may be present. Use a high temperature for about 30 minutes. Allow the sand to cool before adding it to coco fibre.
Feeding: Offer a single cricket through a hole drilled into the lid to minimise disturbance. If the food is either not eaten or killed and left it is best to remove it inside 48 hours. Try feeding again a week later. Scorpions cannot be overfed and will nearly always take food aggressively when hungry, especially this species. A scorpion that is not particularly hungry will often shy away or appear frightened by the food item.
Now I am not trying to say it is the only way, but all care sheets I have read for Flinders Ranges Scorpion all say the same thing.
Just giving you as much information as I can so you can look after your new scorpion.
The information was extracted from a care sheet on a website called the green scorpion.
Cheers
Tark
it will prob spend months under there ..also depends what kind of scorpion it is but you have no problems 
