Desert type Scorpion Questions

Sadly I've Lost 2 desert type scorpions recently I've read GS's Article on how to keep desert type scorpions a dozen times,.. but still lost them thought maybe i'm doing something wrong,.. so i'd like your opinion guys,.. because i have 7 more desert scorpions and i don't want to lose them to my mistake again,..

My Hottentotta Hottentotta 4i was kept in a substrate of 60% sand and 30% dry coco peat, i found a really small water dish which i filled once a week,.. once i filled it the next day it will dry up completely,.. i think i got her pre-molt so i didn't mind that she refused to eat,.. so i amped up the humidity by occasionally and slightly misting the one side of the enclosure,.. after 3 weeks she molted i got excited and saw that she settled down and tucked herself between a rock and the aquarium glass,.. after 4 days of inactivity i decided that she might be resting, and didn't really bother her at all then 3 more days passed still no activity so i decided to slightly tap her pincer with a little stick only to find out she's lifeless,..

My V. Spinigerus 2i was also kept in the same mixture of substrate, I mist him twice a week, because he still 2i,.. but this was the time i read about Mycosis and how it can be deadly to scorpions, and how some keepers don't really mist their Desert type scorpions because the source of mycosis was humidity,.. so i didn't bother misting him fearing mycosis and how other people feared it as well,.. then he molted i didn't bother him so that there aren't any source of stress,.. after a day i saw half of his body still on the exoskeleton, i knew there was a problem so i took a closer look and saw that he's all dried up,..

I keep my Desert scorpions on the same substrate( but my P. Liosoma is currently in black gravel type sand because i ran out of sand is that okay? i saw some enclosures using black grainy sand) , plus a little boost on heat with a heat lamp but its a little far so it doesn't add too much heat, the range of temp in my area is 31 - 24 degrees celsius,.. the enclosures are glass with no covers but the glass is high and no decors and near the sides so they can't escape.
but my biggest problem is that I'm confused about the balance between humidity and Mycosis, on top of that i really don't have access to a hygrometer,.. I've been searching and searching for a good article regarding mycosis and how scorpions get it,.. what is the main reasons why they get it,.. it really got me scared and maybe that's why some of my pets died
What did i do wrong?
what would be best for humidity and also prevent Mycosis,.. misting the side of the enclosure? or dampening portion of the substrate?

Mycosis is a fungus which develops in your scorpion. Sometimes in the book lungs or at joints. It means that your desert scorpion has been in too much contact with water. Your VS that dried up wasn't getting enough humidity. Sub adults require more humidity then adults. He was too dry which is why he got stuck in his molt.

Any desert species not full grown needs more moisture. so misting 1 quarter of the enclosure every 3-4 days should be good. It also allows the scorpion to get a drink off the droplets on the walls.

Were you introducing crickets or feeder bugs after the molt? They can harm your scorpions.

It's very difficult to diagnose what could have gone wrong in your case. It may not have even been your fault at all. Just keep doing what the experienced guys and girls around here do and say and you should succeed.

I second your questions. I just recently lost an Egyptian Green scorp (Buthacus leptochelys). I had him for about 6 months and he was thriving then suddenly dead. I'm not sure what instar he was but I'm sure he was not full grown. I read a lot about mycosis and this breed and decided not to mist him or use a water bowl. I just focused on feeding him well hydrated prey (mostly crickets).

I'm sure there is some variation between different scorps, but in general for North African and Middle East desert scorps (and any others that may come from very dry conditions) does hydrated prey offer enough fluids or should one supplement with a bit of water?

I'm thinking that maybe a bottle cap of water once a week would allow the scorp to drink if he wanted to but would not add much humitity. It seems to me that misting would add much more humitity than a small cap of water. Any thoughts from desert scorp experts?

I'm not the expert to be asking my Parabuthus Liosoma is acting weird and sluggish too. I actually started a thread about it call "my parabuthus liosoma loves humidity". I did however get advice from GS and shadowfoot but basically it was don't give it too much water. give it a water dish ever 3 or 4 weeks for a night. She hasn't eaten in 7 days now. So I'm not too worried yet. Perhaps it's a seasonal thing as the cold season is approaching for northern hemisphere scorpions.

Yames, is right, juvenile specimens do need more humidity. Specially for H. hottentotta, it is advised to keep 1/4 of the substrate slightly moist. For juvenile desert scorpions, the best substrate is plain dry coco fibre.

At younger instars, desert scorpions are more resistant to mycosis due to their need for moisture. So, up to 5i, you can mist one wall of their enclosure. Once they reach 5i, I suggest adding a shallow water dish (such as a bottle cap), filled with pebbles.

Is misting much more effective than just adding 2-3 drops of water into the substrate of a Desert sp?
I've been doing this for over half a year now and im not havin any problems with my specimens molting.
Though when my specimens reach their 4 instar I put small water dishes in their enclosures which i fill up with fresh water everyday , Although I've never seen them drink i saw from one of GS's topic that they do drink water.
Bout temp hmm IDK.. I don't use any heat pads like you guys do since I live in a tropical country..

Btw the substrate I use is 20% dry to the bones coco peat and 80% tiny pebbles wherein I put the droplets of water they aren't mixed. they're separated from each other via stones., I personally don't like peats for my desert sp's. because they house mites when wet.

@Yames, so contact with water is the reason behind mycosis,.. I misted the sides of the enclosures a little while ago,.. I saw my C. Exilicauda try to get droplets of water on the side of the enclosure i misted and used his tail to spread the water all over his body and legs,.. Its awesome to see maybe i can record it one time,..

@robert44, im not sure about hydrating feeders, although i also provide my feeders with good source of water,..

@DolbyR, I'll try to get at least 1/4 of the substrate slighty moist by misting on the side,.. dry coco fiber? haven't tried them before because i usually see it moist even with slightly misting,.. but i'll try to give it a try once i get my hands on some coco fiber

@bloodysky, I'm on a tropical country to, but seeing as december is near i can see at least 2 - 3 degree decrease in temp so i thought a little heat lamp would help them XD hehe
i only do misting because i saw my C.Exilicauda take a bath and my new little H.Hs drink from some water droplets and it also drips down to the substrate and make it a little moist i guess

So how does this sound in general for most very dry desert type scorps??? For small instars: maybe use a mix of sand and coco fiber substrate and lightly mist a bit of their enclosure every few days. For adults: use pure sand and place a small bottle cap of water with pebbles in the cage and fill at most once-a-week and allow to go dry between fills (and don't mist the cage). ????

One other thing comes to mind. I would think it logical to never keep any part of the enclosure wet or moist at all times. Hopefully allowing a good drying between waterings or mistings would reduce fungal spores in the cage.

I'm no expert in this area and there are just my thoughts.

Has anyone experimented with some type of anti fungal substance that could be added to any water placed in desert scorp cages? Maybe some natural substance? Just a thought.

Most anti fungal agents are usually creams and are meant for external use. If it is meant to be taken orally then you have to be sure it is safe for animals and every animal could respond differently so personally I wouldn't try it.

I agree that it would be risky but it would be interesting if anyone has experimented with anti fungal agents. Maybe it could be some natural mineral or herb added to water.

I know fungal spores are everywhere but focusing on reducing them in the cage might make some difference. For example, if a small water dish is placed in the cage, maybe one should take it out and wash it before adding water rather than just topping it off in the cage. I have wondered about and been interested in "scorp medicine" for some time. I think I'll start a new thread on this.